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    Growlers use a Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac tire as shown, let the image do the talking, click to enlarge

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    Last edited by M1163; 01-05-2020, 10:22 PM.

  • #2
    That's good but where do you get the o rings for them ?


    • #3
      imp We didn't even know the wheels have O rings! there is no manual, you are the first to "step on the moon" -
      • phone this mob and see if they can size something up to help -
      • As a faster alternative I know engineering suppliers carry O-ring rubber, you cut to length and glue with industrial superglue adhesive, very common solution -
      • or try contacting the people who made them here:

      Cheers Paul - please report back and let us know how you solved the problem so we can help others.

      This is for M35 truck larger diameter than growler

      Click image for larger version

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      • #4
        imp Here's another option, it's a part number for o-ring by Hutchinson supplied to Growler< Good chance - but don't know if it's correct one

        General Dynamics part no. 55002318 o-ring
        NSN 5331-01-597-3441 o-ring
        Hutchinson ind part number 50021

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        • #5
          A couple findings on wheels and tires; first being the wheels appear to simply be 2-piece, not bead-lock. A big-time off-road guy told me they don't use the O-rings anymore on these, but Locktite or Permatex Gasket Maker. He said that is less headache unless you're changing tires often.

          On the tires, he said the Wrangler DuraTracs are expensive, but excellent multi-purpose tires with a good balance of dry, wet, mud, ice, snow and road traction.

          However, the 235/85-16s are only commercially available in load range E (10-ply). These have a very stiff carcass designed for about 2 tons load per tire.

          His suggestion if wanting to keep original appearance but better performance was to use the LT265/75R16 112/109Q C-load (6-ply) version of the DuraTrac. There are several versions. This also assumes replacing all four.

          The 265 tire has identical diameter (no speedometer, fit or gearing issues) and is only a smidge wider (0.8" tread). I doubt anyone would know different, although I have not seen them mounted. Tread is identical.

          His reasoning is that the tires would provide better surface conformity for better traction on any surface, lighter for improved suspension response and handling, and a better ride to boot.

          As most of us no longer have to worry about combat hazards and are not towing houses, I thought I'd throw that out there.


          • M1163
            M1163 commented
            Editing a comment
            W427 It may be that the run flat/bead lock insert may not be correct for a different tire type I see they are made in different sizes for the Rock Monster wheels depending on tire Brand AND type! Might pay to Check first - Paul

        • #6
          Info from the Hutchinson site that may be helpful. Note the RM wheels are not identical, but are of similar 2-piece type with O-ring, and also use the optional beadlock insert. RM Wheel Manual


          • #7
            Ok, did some measuring this morning, but not with the most precise tools. Here's what I've found/calculated so far:

            16" diameter rim (easy one)

            7" width on the wheel rim. I need the right tool to truely confirm this, but two methods of measuring came to the same number.

            5.25" backspacing. I actually measured between 132, 133, 135 and 137mm in four measurements. But, the back of my rims have what looks like an underbody spray on them that isn't exactly even. It's definitely too much to call 5in, and not enough to call 5.5in, so I'm *Hoping* they stuck to a standard 5.25in.

            Offset charts and calculators tell me this equates to 32mm (or 30mm if you're discount tire and have the only different chart...).

            ***edit three. My 14x2.0 lug nuts showed up today. CONFIRMED, we are 14x2.0 wheel stud threads.

            Also, it looks like we need 13.5" diameter to clear the rotor/caliper, but likely need another +1.5" to fully clear the tierod (I measured the back, I'll check front today and see if that rotor is larger).

            Would love some second confirmation on any of this.
            Last edited by Jlfsu; 05-06-2020, 09:04 AM.
            Pedigree: April 2010 build,SN: LSV118, RN: 626540, revisions unknown but girl looks like she was forgotten out back behind the barn...


            • #8
              That's great, Jason! I'm not in a position to confirm ATM, but hopefully others can get some verification for us here. To keep everyone on the same page when taking measurements, I'll post some example dimension terms and illustrations below. Note that some terms are a bit different either internationally, or in specific industries (such as "wheel" and "rim"). There are some confusing dimensional relationships, and it doesn't help that many are mixed Imperial/US and metric.

              For example, the wheel/rim width is the span between the tire bead seats (example 7"), but the backspace is calculated against the Overall Wheel Width (outer lip to outer lip), e.g., 8.3". The backspace is then taken from that OWW. Anyway, here are some web examples to use for measurement reference:

              Example using an Audi wheel for reference (click to enlarge):
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              • #9
                Where can I buy couple spare rims? stock...


                • #10
                  MBM1163 - well, you can start by posting in the Classified section in Want To Buy/Trade. You can also contact the manufacturer (Hutchinson) with the information posted previously. Be specific as necessary if you want to buy only the rim, with run-flat insert, tire, hose, cap, O-ring, etc. Good luck!


                  • #11
                    Ordered Tires today. Flebay will let you know how they work.

                    Attached Files


                    • W427
                      W427 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Those look good and I hope they work-out. Do you plan to use the original run-flat insert, or cut the rib off, or use/make a flat beadlock insert, or run without either?

                  • #12
                    I have not disembled yet so i am not sure? I do not really need the run flat. I have removed on other MV's and you get a much better ride!


                    • #13
                      I don't know just yet until I get to that point on PM122, but I want the bead-lock, but not the run-flat. So, I will probably get with somebody that has a large wood lathe and cut the run-flat rib off of the bead-lock band. Alternatively, if anyone knows of a 16" beadlock spacer (PVC?) supplier to save me some work, I'm all ears! 🙏


                    • #14
                      Somebody may have already mentioned this somewhere, but I can't seem to find the specs on the 16 nuts used to seal the two halves of the wheel together. Anyone know this off hand?