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  • #16
    Originally posted by Usmc33 View Post
    Question? I set my ride height. Thanks to video. I Had no marks. (repaint).
    The marks are original "Ride" height, while Max and Transport heights are unmarked. You can repaint marks if you like, or I used a stick to measure height at each wheel hub to the "fender" body line.

    I used this method to ensure true even chassis height, and at a specific point for wheel alignment. My new "normal" ride height is 3" above Transport (minimum, resting on the suspension bumpers) height on one, and 2.5" on another Itvee, from the highest corner. They don't sit perfectly level when deflated. This means that all 4 corners have at least that much suspension compression travel. Both are a bit lower than original Ride height, but seem to work quite well for general street driving and mild off-road, with less CV angle, a smoother ride and better handling. That's me. Do your thing.

    Originally posted by Usmc33 View Post
    I wanted to know, Do I leave the Air control on while I am driving around?
    Typically, yes, so it has pressure for both tires and suspension when needed, and for air-accessories if you use them.

    Originally posted by Usmc33 View Post
    I notice when air tank is full. I hear air escape when breaks applied.
    That's odd, as the brakes have no connection to air. I would do a feel & sound-check for moving air, or a wet-search with a soapy water spray bottle for where your leaks are. Don't forget you have a couple cable-operated drain valves that can be prone to leaking at this age (@Rasmussen posted replacement numbers), and a number of fittings and connections that could be having issues, such as the quick-disconnect fitting in the left-rear wheel well. That was one (of several) on one of mine.

    Originally posted by Usmc33 View Post
    With air control switch on, Compressor comes on when needed. Will this keep proper tire pressure and proper ride height while in use. Thanks .
    When powered-up, the compressor switch will only enable the air compressor to maintain air tank pressure within the fixed pressure switch setting, and has no other function in itself.

    If your CTIS is functioning properly and sufficient pressure is in the air tanks, it will check and adjust tire pressure at power-up and every 10 minutes or so. That's the quiet "tssss" (inflation), louder "tshhhh" (deflation) and "sneeze" noise you hear when it's done checking or adjusting and depressurizes the hoses. The ride height is not self-checking, so it's quiet until you command a function, if sufficient pressure is in the tanks.

    Many of your questions are answered in the TM (Operator's Manual), which is available for download here. About 600 pages of good info. Unfortunately, the Service Manual is still classified. Other documents and guides are also available that you should probably have, and I suggest binge-watching Greg's video series. 😎

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    • #17
      Thank you. I will look for the TM Manual on Fourm.

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      • #18
        I usually just fill my air system from my shop air before I go anywhere, but once you set ride height it does not release air to keep the truck level, so you really dont need to keep the air tank full unless you have an air leak in your suspension system somewhere. Also if you leave your CTIS controller on it will check air pressure quite often, if you turn that system off it will not turn on again until you turn it on even after starting and stopping the engine.

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        • #19

          Originally posted by Usmc33
          I notice when air tank is full. I hear air escape when breaks applied.


          Originally posted by W427 View Post



          That's odd, as the brakes have no connection to air.
          The exact same thing occurs on my 1163 when I hit the brakes. It's doesn't bother me and I don't notice anything wrong........................yet. 🙄

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          • #20
            Are you sure you're not hearing hydraulic pressure bypass during brake application? This would be especially likely if your hydraulic fluid has moisture, air bubbles, foam, or entrained air.

            I would first verify if the sound occurs when the switch is on but the engine is not running (KOEO). Also verify that it makes the sound several times successively, as the hydro system has a pressure reserve accumulator. This may also help you to pinpoint the location of the sound, whatever is making it. Another Itvee mystery 👻 post what you find!

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            • #21
              Dig this..........................KOEO...........apply brakes, solenoid at air compressor activates and opens moisture dump at compressor. Pretty sure this is what is going on. I'm evaluating this by myself with all the sheet metal on at the comp. so not 100% certain; but pretty sure.

              And it happens EVERY time you hit the brakes.

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              • W427
                W427 commented
                Editing a comment
                I don't have my manuals and stuff (on the road), but I do recall a timer-activated purge/dryer regeneration/something system. I'll have to dig my own rabbit hole when I get back. BTW, I don't know who's is working right, as my two PMs don't do the brake/air thing you two describe.

            • #22
              Originally posted by W427 View Post
              Are you sure you're not hearing hydraulic pressure bypass during brake application? This would be especially likely if your hydraulic fluid has moisture, air bubbles, foam, or entrained air.
              New word for the day. Entrainment. Never heard of this. Interesting stuff. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. Gonna go down the rabbit hole and educate myself now. Thank you.

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              • W427
                W427 commented
                Editing a comment
                Ha! I didn't mean to send you on a new hunt, but it is one reason why I opt to change all fluids after receipt of a surplussed Itvee. While the 10 to 15-year age of the hydraulic fluid is not a big concern in itself, I have no idea what has happened to the fluid in that time. Minimally, years of cycling hot/cold storage, rain, humidity, sea air, standard pressure washings, and much more. At less than $15 retail per gallon at big box stores, I figure it's cheap insurance to change it out. Yes, you can call me paranoid, or proactive.😎

            • #23
              To change all fluids and filters is a must done!! I had water in my front differential!! To control air leaks- and there can be a lot - use soapwater and spray it on all!!!!! parts which are connected with the airflow the airbags, too!!!! A small leak couses empty airbags over night because there is not much volume in the airbags.

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