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  • ITV Serpentine Drive Belts

    Just an update to other threads with some findings. The belts used on ITVs are two lengths of similar belts. One length on original ITVs, and a longer one on I-Cubed modified versions (bug-eye headlights or flat intake filter are easy indicators of I-Cubed modifications).

    Original ITVs: 65" standard 6-rib (20mm) K-section serpentine belt. Example part numbers 25-060650 and 6PK1650 (from original ITVs)

    I-Cubed modified ITVs: 69" standard 6-rib (20mm) K-section serpentine belt. Example part number K060690 (NSN reference)

    There are many crossover part numbers, and these belts should be available anywhere. Commonly found online for under $10, shipped, with diligent shopping. These belts are 10-15 years old, so carry a spare if yours has never been changed, or if you off-road.

    Like most serpentine drive belts, they are awkwardly easy to replace. Use a wrench or belt tool on the spring-loaded tensioner pulley center hex and push down to relieve belt tension. Remove and replace (check alignment), and release tensioner pulley tension. Done. Use care to avoid snagging behind the timing indicator on the left (driver's) side of the crank pulley.

    Left (driver's) side view of belt routing, tensioner pulley and hex:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	ITV Serpentine Belt Tensioner Location.jpg Views:	1 Size:	241.0 KB ID:	6239 Click image for larger version  Name:	ITV Serpentine Belt Tensioner Location 2.jpg Views:	1 Size:	246.6 KB ID:	6237
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    Last edited by W427; 06-14-2021, 07:49 AM.

  • #2
    In regard to what you stated in the previous post, I have an odd duck I suppose.

    I'm I-cubed and have the 38115 tensioner running along with an 36157 idler pulley yet have the 65" belt. A 69" belt would be way too big for my setup. Trust me, I tried just to see.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by lifefloat View Post
      In regard to what you stated in the previous post, I have an odd duck I suppose.
      Indeed, there have been several I3 conversions that were incomplete, with only some of the components changed-out. Those vehicles often came with the uninstalled parts in a box or stowed. One of the parts is the alternator bracket, which moves the alternator and pulley position, requiring the longer belt. If yours did not get the new bracket, then it would still use the shorter belt.

      You can do a search here for a photo I recall, of the I3 alternator bracket. That should confirm your situation, or provide new info to solve a new mystery.😉

      Comment


      • macbaldwin
        macbaldwin commented
        Editing a comment
        Is the tensioner the same on the I-cubed update as the original set-up? When I start my 1163 and let it idle, it never reaches 24V output. If I rev it up for a second, it immediately goes above and maintains 24V. I suspect the tensioner is the issue and needs replacement. Let me know if anyone has any other thoughts. Thanks!

    • #4
      Originally posted by macbaldwin
      Is the tensioner the same on the I-cubed update as the original set-up? When I start my 1163 and let it idle, it never reaches 24V output. If I rev it up for a second, it immediately goes above and maintains 24V.
      Without looking it up, I think it's the same tensioner, and only one part number with one Ford crossover I can find in the parts listings (1L2Z-6C348-AA). Fortunately, they are $6 and up at RockAuto for example, or pull yours and look for a tiny part number that could indicate a different item.

      My Itvees are similar, that when started and until rpm reach a threshold, it charges, but until "blipped" slightly it does not charge at full rate. I have not suspected anything (until now) as I have seen numerous examples of charging systems that display similar threshold-rpm behavior, and my routine is to blip the throttle after start by habit. Now I'm curious if we are the exception.

      Comment

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