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  • #16
    Does anyone know the part number for the part on post #8 or where I can find one? My M1161 has the brackets but this looks like it was removed entirely. Thanks for any help.

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    • #17
      Mistersnow
      Junior Member
      Mistersnow Hi, no part numbers that I know of. Most Growlers were supplied with Mk1 rear steering which needed a safety review. Result was the I cubed upgrade kit. If you have the Georgia welded fabricated brackets I would suggest a welded tie rod be placed between them for safety. If you want rear steering go for the upgraded unit and controls maybe place a wanted to buy Request on the forum Good Luck Paul
      Skyhawk

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      • #18
        Originally posted by killjoy35 View Post
        Hello Gents! So I am going to go and make the attempt to cut my welds! (If anyone reading advises differently, i'd love to know your thoughts). I have a dremel, rookie user, and would like to know if you have any additional cutting details or Best Procedure. Lastly, the "I-Cube" upgrade joystick box installation? Wondering if anyone has installed this. I know there are 2 cables that screw on, but my " I-cubed" joystick box has a third wire?? Wondering where this plugs to? If anyone has any info, please pass along, and thanks for everyone's contributions thus far.

        KillJoy35
        killjoy35
        Member
        killjoy35 I just did this a few days ago. I went heavy and used an angle grinder first, cleaned it up with a dremel. Don't be scared, lots of metal on the lockout arm (for lack of a better term), and the welds are on the edge of a pretty robust piston ends, don't worry too much about heat or over grinding. If you have access, I recommend removing the pin that connects the brake arm to the air piston, as well as popping the two gas struts and the sensor/switch plunger off their ball post. For SA, the switch plunger measures a short when extended, and open when collapsed even the slightest bit. Removing these will make.it easier to break the last bit of weld and know when it's free.

        The struts are 60lb, 7.5in extended, 2in stroke. **AFTERMARKET PART NUMBER** is CS750-60. I accidentally cleaned both labels off with brake parts cleaner when removing the paint on the label. Columbia Struts is where I got them, they seem like good people and shipped extremely fast.

        Edit update. Found the OE part number to that gas strut, GGS40-060-K. H.A. GRUDEN CO, INC.
        Jlfsu
        Senior Member
        Last edited by Jlfsu; 05-26-2020, 08:20 AM.
        Pedigree: April 2010 build,SN: LSV118, RN: 626540, revisions unknown but doubtful...my girl looks like she was forgotten out back behind the barn...

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        • killjoy35
          killjoy35
          Member
          killjoy35 commented
          Editing a comment
          Jlfsu,
          Thanks for the detail. That's what I needed. I am planning this mission for today or tomorrow. Have a great weekend!

      • #19
        ITV Rear Steer (61608C2000) Test Procedure Click image for larger version

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        • #20
          M1163
          Senior Member
          M1163 Thank you for the info. I will place a WTB for a rear steering unit. In the meantime, is it unsafe to drive with the fabricated brackets with no welded tie rod? I don’t have plates yet but I might have taken it down a backroad or two. I did notice the back end was a little squirrelly. Mine did come from Georgia.

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          • #21
            Mistersnow
            Junior Member
            Mistersnow I’m not an engineer but given what happened to meandmygrowler below I would be very cautious. At 70mph a sudden side force on a rear wheel might not end well. But at 10mph probably not a big deal.
            https://www.growlerforum.com/forum/g...6-growler-down
            Skyhawk

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            • #22
              Originally posted by Mistersnow View Post
              M1163
              Senior Member
              M1163 Thank you for the info. I will place a WTB for a rear steering unit. In the meantime, is it unsafe to drive with the fabricated brackets with no welded tie rod? I don’t have plates yet but I might have taken it down a backroad or two. I did notice the back end was a little squirrelly. Mine did come from Georgia.
              If you're not handy with a torch/welder, but a good drill and a hacksaw/cutoff wheel are in your garage, and you need a cost effective solution: you need to make it a box (or mechanically similar.)


              Head to the local home depot, find the sticks of all thread, you want 1/2" minimum, 5/8" if you can find it. Get a metal drill bit and some lubricant oil - same size bit as all thread. You want 3 nuts per side per stick (so 12 total) and 2 washers per side per stick (8).

              For install, measure the distance between the two legs of the bracket (this should be what your inner tie rods are attached to.) Cut both the sticks of all thread to that length + 2 inches.

              Drill holes at opposite corners (as accessible as possible) of the lowest part of the bracket, no closer than 3/4in from any metal edge, need that meat for strength.)
              run the all thread through one end, then in this order (these will all be between the bracket) washer-nut-nut-nut-nut-washer, now thread them all the way to the middle, the slide the all thread through its partner hole on the other end of the bracket. Get it relatively even split so that you have about an inch hanging out from each end of the bracket. Slide the washers to the inside ends, thread the nuts to the ends to the point you need a wrench, putting just enough force to feel the bracket "wanting" to spread. Now thread the inner nuts to bump up to the ends. If all goes well, you'll need two wrenches, one to hold the outer nut, one to tighten the inner nut to it.

              Do this for both of your all thread sticks. When done with that, go ahead and run a washer and nut on the outside of the bracket ends, this should keep it from wanting to spin.

              By the way, you've just created an adjustable lower sway bar setup without bushings well....something like that.

              I drew a picture. I didn't finish my graphics design class...just saying.
              Click image for larger version

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              Jlfsu
              Senior Member
              Last edited by Jlfsu; 05-25-2020, 05:20 PM.
              Pedigree: April 2010 build,SN: LSV118, RN: 626540, revisions unknown but doubtful...my girl looks like she was forgotten out back behind the barn...

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              • #23
                How are you gents! I cute the welds on the rear steer and when I put it in 1st the rear steer works well!!

                The Green power light on the rear steer control unit however does not come on and the red rear steer light blinks... should I be worried?

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                • #24
                  NFAGUNNER
                  Junior Member
                  NFAGUNNER :

                  Click image for larger version

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