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Rear Steering

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  • Rear Steering

    Hello, has anyone messed with the rear steering on the 1161 or the 1163? I was told that if you cut the weld loose on the back, where they (USMC) tack welded each side on the rear to disable the rear steer that it would work again. Have'nt tried it yet. Let me know
    Thanks, Tom

  • #2
    I have not. Its definity on my list of things to do. CV boots are first followed by rear canvas top.



    • #3
      Hi Tom
      Some of the Growlers released by Gov Planet had the rear steering actuator removed and replaced with fabricated brackets. Member "Me and My Growler" has experienced problems with these brackets bending where they are attached to the unibody see here:

      Other vehicles released had tack welded actuators, I am told by GP staff that this tack weld can be removed to reinstate the rear steering, as done by this new owner I am guessing you have the latter type and should be able to make it work! The rear steering was designed for low speed maneuvering of the ITV's into USMC aircraft, with I believe safety interlocks that prevent it's use at high speed! ("put it in first or reverse gear") Keep us posted....
      Cheers, Paul

      Fabricated brackets
      Click image for larger version

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      Tack welded actuator
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      • #4
        I have used a dremel to cut the welds on my Growler. The vehicle must be in 1st gear or reverse to engage. Mine is working perfect! If you have problems, the locking mechanism is air actuated, so keep that in mind


        • #5
          I cut both welds loose, but the rear steer did not work, I never tried it in 1st or reverse. I'll go back out and try that.
          Thanks Guys


          • #6
            Hey, went back out to the shop, jumped in the growler, put it in 1st gear and it worked great. Boy you have to be careful until you get use to the rear steer control, about wiped out the garage door driving it out!!
            Thanks Guys for the info


            • #7
              What does the actuator look like? Any photo? Any issues with the centering switch? Does that lock it?


              • #8
                You must learn to walk before you can run Grasshopper

                Terra - look at post #4 just above - here JMPogue89 shows how the air ram unlocks the module by moving it forward, then the hydraulic system steers rear wheels by joy stick in Low and Rev ONLY. The air ram can be mechanically locked in the center position using D-clips in photo 2, the normal procedure for highway use, Cheers Paul

                Click image for larger version

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                • #9
                  Click image for larger version

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                  Does that look like the correct unit? Anyone else have a photo of the unit installed?


                • #10
                  I used my die grinder with a cut off wheel on it to grind the welds away. Mine steers now. Keep in mind that you need to have the selector in first or reverse, you need to have air built up in tank and according to the print out of the dashboard and gauges, the cable that sticks out of the lower part of the panel just in front of the parking brake is the manual lock for the rear steer system. According to the manual you are to "secure it with a lock to keep the wheel from being turned"


                  • M1163
                    Senior Member
                    M1163 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Senior Member
                    Rasmusrentals are you sure it's not just used to lock the drivers steering wheel only! Great to hear your RW Steer is going great, not sure what we'll use it for but "going is good" ........ The rear steer has "D" clips that secure and lock it for safety and these should be fitted for highway use - thanks for the update Paul

                  • W427
                    Senior Member
                    W427 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Paul, the rear-steer is used for rolling obliquely in parades (just before hitting Emergency Kneeling), and to impress the local off-road club members. :-D

                • #11
                  Rear Steer Lock Pins

                  Here is an early photo of USMC methods to disarm the rear-steer. Three methods were used that I know of, two are shown in #3 above and welded pins below:

                  1. Remove RS unit completely and fit angle steel brackets (Georgia early) which Me and My Growler found was inadequate and dangerous!
                  2. weld the lock pins
                  3. weld the actuator rods/arms

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                  • #12
                    Originally posted by W427 View Post
                    Paul, the rear-steer is used for rolling obliquely in parades (just before hitting Emergency Kneeling), and to impress the local off-road club members. :-D
                    Rear Steering rear steer works almost fine! It does not willingly lock when finished working. I've WE-40'd all the moving parts, no luck. It appears that it should "drift" back into the locked position via "gravity" but no. So, is there a spring in the air driven actuator to return it to the locked (out) position? The piston, when disconnected from the lock actuator levers, is not "friendly" when pulled by hand to the out position (locked). I usually lock it by pushing the mechanism with my foot after use. May the heavens protect me if the cylinder needs to be removed and honed!!


                    • #13
                      I have the exact same issue, I haven’t tried to repair it yet.


                      • #14
                        Hello Gents! So I am going to go and make the attempt to cut my welds! (If anyone reading advises differently, i'd love to know your thoughts). I have a dremel, rookie user, and would like to know if you have any additional cutting details or Best Procedure. Lastly, the "I-Cube" upgrade joystick box installation? Wondering if anyone has installed this. I know there are 2 cables that screw on, but my " I-cubed" joystick box has a third wire?? Wondering where this plugs to? If anyone has any info, please pass along, and thanks for everyone's contributions thus far.



                        • #15
                          killjoy35 Tony - from what I've seen and read you have all the intell above (in this thread) to deal with the cuts and how rear steer operates. Maybe some PPE for execution! It is as simple as cutting the two welds to allow movement of the components.

                          On the I-cubed front that is another chapter - doing the rear steer upgrade I believe is an all or nothing affair, you can't cherry pick and install one or two components. USMC obviously had problems with the "Mk.1" version and carried out a complete redesign (enhanced safety) in the form of the I-cubed upgrade. So I'm suggesting you have two options: cut the two welds and stick with the Mk.1, or venture into the great unknown (no instructions) and attempt to install the complete I-cubed upgrade i.e. new wiring, controls, R/S unit etc. I would respectfully suggest you start with the Mk.1 and get that system running first - then go from there. At the end of the day, whilst the rear steer has great novelty and prestige value - it offers little practical application, other than for the die-hard off-road enthusiast or those with seriously difficult parking arrangements!

                          I-cubed Installation instruction:
                          I have one page of the install/ testing procedures - Tony if you have the instruction sheets in your crate maybe you could post the set here. Thanks in advance, Paul

                          Click image for larger version

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                          • killjoy35
                            killjoy35 commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Great info, yes i'll post what I have in my box. Wondering if the MK1 "joystick box" is the same as the new (minus the 3rd wire)? I have both but my Mk1 box has extensive corrosion from water. I'll check this all out and post my results.